More and more textile artists are using natural processes in their work, from dyeing with rust to working with found and scavenged items, and this book is the first to cover this increasingly popular subject. It promotes a way of working creatively with what is close at hand, whether gathered on walks by the seashore or collected in your garden, and working in tune with natural processes, bringing the rhythms and unpredictability of nature into your work. Examples of this type of working include burying embroidered fabric to give it a natural patina, dyeing with garden fruits or seaweed, weaving with pieces of beachcombed fibre, printing with found objects and making sun prints. In some cases nature is directly harnessed to make its mark on work; for one of her pieces, the author wrapped cloth around rusty bolts on sea defences, then unwrapped them weeks later to reveal patterns made by rust. The book is illustrated with the finest examples of contemporary embroidery and textile-art work using nature, by artists whose practice is tied up with their experience of and respect for the natural environment, often capturing a very strong sense of place and a feeling of calmness and contemplation.
"This is the most comprehensive manual written on natural dyes since the early 1800s. Jim Liles has rescued ancient skills from near-extinction and shared them in a book that will inspire, challenge, and guide the modern dyer."--Rita Buchanan, author of A Weaver's Garden, and editor of the new Brooklyn Botanic Gardens Handbook on Natural Dyes " . . . a must for every dyer. The recipes are explicit and detailed as to success and failure."--Mary Frances Davidson For several thousand years, all dyes were of animal, vegetable, or mineral origin, and many ancient civilizations possessed excellent dye technologies. The first synthetic dye was produced in 1856, and the use of traditional dyes declined rapidly thereafter. By 1915 few non-synthetics were used by industry or craftspeople. The craft revivals of the 1920s explored traditional methods of natural dyeing to some extent, particularly with wool, although the great eighteenth- and nineteenth-century dye manuals, which recorded the older processes, remained largely forgotten. In The Art and Craft of Natural Dyeing, J. N. Liles consolidates the lore of the older dyers with his own first-hand experience to produce both a history of natural dyes and a practical manual for using pre-synthetic era processes on all the natural fibers--cotton, linen, silk, and wool. A general section on dyeing and mordanting and a glossary introduce the beginner to dye technology. In subsequent chapters, Liles summarizes the traditional dye methods available for each major color group. Scores of recipes provide detailed instructions on how to collect ingredients--flowers, weeds, insects, wood, minerals--prepare the dyevat, troubleshoot, and achieve specific shades. The book will appeal not only to beginning and veteran dyers but to students of restorations and reconstruction as well as to craftspeople--spinners, quilters, weavers, knitters, and other textile artists--interested in natural dyes for their beauty and historical authenticity. The Author: J. N. Liles is professor of zoology at the University of Tennessee, Knoxville. He has taught at Arrowmont School and other regional craft schools and has exhibited his work at the Arrowmont School, the Southern Highland Handicraft Guild Folk Art Center, and the Carol Reece Museum.
Original research and examples from artists illustrate how different textile-based art approaches can provide therapeutic outlets for women with a complete variety of life experiences. The psychology of this therapeutic approach is explained as well as explanations of specific techniques and suggestions for practise with a wide range of clients.
This book is part of the popular Textile Handbook series and is a complete how-to-do-it guide to obtaining a wide range of colors from natural dyes. It is suitable for the beginner as well as for the more experienced textile artist. The dyeing can be done in the home or the classroom with plants from the garden or bought in a local store. It is a comparatively cheap process that will also satisfy the craft person's desire to use 'green' methods in their work. Most books on natural dyes only deal with wool for weaving. This book will also cover yarns for embroidery. The book will be filled with step-by-step sequences, useful tips and the author's own work to show the amazing variety of colours that can be achieved by using natural materials. All in all, this is a comprehensive guide to using natural dyes that will also be an inspiration to all who want to explore the use of these dyes in imaginative ways.
Purpureae vestes estudia un element fonamental en la vida de qualsevol societat antiga com és el vestit i els colors utilitzats per a la seua ornamentació, especialment la púrpura. El luxe en el vestir implicava l'ús de materials com l'or per a la confecció de certs complements. Amb uns antecedents clarament orientals de recerca de la magnificència externa de reis i d'altres dignataris, el simbolisme del color en l'ornamentació personal va constituir, a les ciutats riberenques de la Mediterrània, un factor important de distinció social. Bé fossen de procedència vegetal, mineral o animal, els tints van donar sempre l'«ànima» als tèxtils. Per això, el poder imperial romà, en alguns períodes de la seua història, va controlar amb normes legals de major o menor duresa l'ús de determinats colors obtinguts a partir de gasteròpodes marins. L'obra tracta extensament els aspectes econòmics i tècnics relacionats amb l'elaboració i comercialització de vestits i teles per a altres usos (veles, adorns de la llar, etc.). A partir de diversos punts de vista, entre els que s'inclouen les dades arqueològiques o les referències etnograficocomparatives, s'hi incideix en les etapes de preparació de les fibres tèxtils, en les formes d'elaboració dels teixits més complexos a través de la reconstrucció experimental, en el treball dels pescadors i manufacturers que elaboraven en tallers costaners el tint més valorat, la púrpura, o en els qui treballaven en els tallers de la ciutat, així com en l'anàlisi i descripció detallada dels resultats extrets de les restes tèxtils aparegudes en jaciments, de l'Egipte romà sobretot, que ens mostren encara avui la riquesa i vivor dels seus colors.
Early Art of the Southeastern Indians is a visual journey through time, highlighting some of the most skillfully created art in native North America. The remarkable objects described and pictured here, many in full color, reveal the hands of master artists who developed lapidary and weaving traditions, established centers for production of shell and copper objects, and created the first ceramics in North America. Presenting artifacts originating in the Archaic through the Mississippian periods--from thousands of years ago through A.D. 1600--Susan C. Power introduces us to an extraordinary assortment of ceremonial and functional objects, including pipes, vessels, figurines, and much more. Drawn from every corner of the Southeast--from Louisiana to the Ohio River valley, from Florida to Oklahoma--the pieces chronicle the emergence of new media and the mastery of new techniques as they offer clues to their creators’ widening awareness of their physical and spiritual worlds. The most complex works, writes Power, were linked to male (and sometimes female) leaders. Wearing bold ensembles consisting of symbolic colors, sacred media, and richly complex designs, the leaders controlled large ceremonial centers that were noteworthy in regional art history, such as Etowah, Georgia; Spiro, Oklahoma; Cahokia, Illinois; and Moundville, Alabama. Many objects were used locally; others circulated to distant locales. Power comments on the widening of artists’ subjects, starting with animals and insects, moving to humans, then culminating in supernatural combinations of both, and she discusses how a piece’s artistic “language” could function as a visual shorthand in local style and expression, yet embody an iconography of regional proportions. The remarkable achievements of these southeastern artists delight the senses and engage the mind while giving a brief glimpse into the rich, symbolic world of feathered serpents and winged beings.