A growing population in the mid-nineteenth century and a wealthier middle class, combined with an increased social awareness, greater literacy, better travel facilities, inventiveness and cheaper production through mechanization, all helped to increase demand for male fashion accessories. Men wished to balance the sobriety of their clothing: if fashion dictated drab coloring, all they could do was to add ornament; hence, gentlemen came to display a selection of male jewelry. The highlight of these accessories was the watch chain or albert with its attachments: watch-keys, seals, fobs, compasses, pencils, vestas and the like. Studs, cravat pins, flower holders, cuff-links and special dress buttons for waistcoats were also widely used. Many of the items described and illustrated here are very collectable and can still be worn today, often providing a stimulating conversion point.
Illustrations of hats, veils, wigs, cravats, shawls, shoes, gloves, and other accessories enhance an engaging commentary that reveals the humor and charm of the many-sided story of accessorized apparel. 644 figures and 59 plates.
Melbourne grew during the 19th century from its fledgling roots into a global metropolitan centre, and was home to many people from a range of social and cultural backgrounds. The Martin family arrived in Melbourne in 1839 and soon established themselves at the genteel Viewbank estate near Heidelberg. They were typical of the early, middle-class immigrants to Melbourne who brought their gentility and privilege with them to the colony. The Martins spent many years at Viewbank, and the physical remains they left behind provide a valuable case study for examining class negotiation in the colony through historical archaeology. In this important study, material culture is used to understand the unique way in which the Martin family used gentility to establish and maintain their class position.
The first comprehensive guide to identifying and interpreting items such as buttons, clasps, buckles, combs, and other items of personal adornment in early American museum collections and archaeological sites.
While fashion is subject to seasonal change, the wardrobe of the man who dresses in classic style is marked by a distinctive continuity. A Well-Dressed Gentleman’s Pocket Guide is both an etiquette and a history of impeccable dressing and classic styling. It illustrates the fine distinctions of the gentleman’s dress code, arming the reader with the requisite information to dress for any occasion. It covers the entire wardrobe—from suits, coats, shirts, and shoes to umbrellas and underclothing—their history, manufacture, tailoring, materials, patterns, and colors. There are also summary style charts and warnings of classic faux pas. Any gentleman should consider himself incomplete without this elegant and authoritative pocket accessory.