In this classic book, Norah Waugh explores the changing shapes of women’s dress from the 1500s to the 1920s. Simple laced bodices became corsets of cane, whalebone and steel, while padding at shoulders and hips gave way to the structures of farthingales, hoops and bustles. Corsets and Crinolines explains the cyclical nature of these fashions, and how waists and skirts changed shape and size through three distinct eras: The 1500s to 1670—farthingales and whaleboned bodies. 1670 to 1800—Stays and hooped petticoats. 1800 to 1925—corsets, crinolines and bustles. Each section describes how these garments originated, how they became popular and how they emerged as central to the fashions of the time. Extracts from diaries, journals, poems and newspapers, as well as over 100 illustrations, demonstrate the variety of these ubiquitous items of clothing throughout modern history. Corsets and Crinolines also contains a wealth of practical notes and resources for today’s costume makers and designers, including: Scaleable patterns for the construction of 25 different bustles, crinolines, corsets, corselets, stays, pocket hoops, hooped petticoats and bodices. Detailed appendices on the manufacture of corsets and crinolines, including farthingales, supports and hooped petticoats. A list of further reading, including costume histories; textile and weaving histories; reconstruction of period clothing; contemporary application of foundational garments; and a list of museums and institutions with period clothing collections, for first-hand study. A glossary of terms and materials.
Perspectives on the Artist and the Culture of His Time
Author: Mary D. Sheriff
Publisher: University of Delaware Press
The essays in Antoine Watteau: Perspectives on the Artist and the Culture of His Time offer a richly textured portrait of the artist's life, work, and reputation for students, specialists, and the general public. The volume brings together art historians whose research is currently defining the field of Watteau studies with scholars from history and literature who have published widely on the political and cultural trends of Watteau's era. Essays include studies of the artist's drawing practice, his relation to the emerging public sphere, and the changing fortunes of his reputation, as well as considerations of art dealing and fashion in Watteau's time. Other essays take up conversation, dance, seduction, and theatricality as essential themes of Watteau's art. This volume will be an indispensable resource for all those interested in the visual culture of Regency France. The book contains sixty-five illustrations.
Representations from the Spinning Wheel to the Electronic Age
Author: Julie Wosk
Publisher: JHU Press
Category: Social Science
From sexist jokes about women drivers to such empowering icons as Amelia Earhart and Rosie the Riveter, representations of the relationship between women and modern technology in popular culture have been both demeaning and celebratory. Depictions of women as timid and fearful creatures baffled by machinery have alternated with images of them as being fully capable of technological mastery and control -- and of lending sex appeal to machines as products. In Women and the Machine, historian Julie Wosk maps the contradictory ways in which women's interactions with -- and understanding of -- machinery has been defined in Western popular culture since the dawn of the Industrial Revolution. Drawing on both visual and literary sources, Wosk illuminates popular gender stereotypes that have burdened women throughout modern history while underscoring their advances in what was long considered the domain of men. Illustrated with more than 150 images, Women and the Machine reveals women rejoicing in their new liberties and technical skill even as they confront society's ambivalence about these developments, along with male fantasies and fears.
Creating the Artful Home: the Aesthetic Movement and Its Influence on Home Decor covers the history of a movement that emphasized "art for art's sake"-and the influence it had on home décor. The Aesthetic Movement in America lasted just a few decades (1870-1900), and served mainly as a bridge between the high Victorian sensibility and the radical shift to the Arts & Crafts style. The movement germinated among artists who used opulent color, decorative patterning, and lavish materials simply for the aesthetic effects they could evoke. It was commonly held that a home that expressed an artful, harmonious soul would instill high aesthetic and moral merit in its inhabitants. The Aesthetic Movement in America helped to popularize the idea that everyone should be able to enjoy beautiful, well-made homes and furnishings-not just the very wealthy. Artful homes could be composed from brilliant antique store finds, discriminating department store purchases, and gems hand-made by the ladies of the house. It was the moment when people embraced the idea that only a beautiful home could be a happy home.
Looks at the different modes of dress in America during the Civil War, from the garments and accessories worn by slaves, soldiers, and common people to the fashion of the upper classes and the beginnings of high fashion.
He could offer her only one thing — a week of intimate pleasure.... Samuel Lennox and Miss Alexandra Ionides cordially invite you to a most provocative game of seduction It shall last for seven days, during which Lennox, Viscount Ranelagh, will wield his celebrated prowess with the London ladies in an attempt to add Miss Alex’s name to his list of conquests. The infamous list is long, though the duration of each liaison has been brief — and as the viscount will assure anyone, that is precisely how he likes it. The lady, for her part, an accomplished artist and benefactress of various charities, has no wish to be a mere plaything. Although a week of intimate pleasure with a man of Ranelagh’s legendary skills would be memorable... As for the other players — irate parents, designing debutantes, a scheming ex-mistress, even a love-struck young man with ideals — all seem intent on meddling. But the viscount is single-minded when it comes to seduction, and Miss Alex is in his sights. Come see who wins in this amorous game!
From the ashes of the Chicago Fire of 1871 came the birth of the city’s fashion scene as entrepreneurs built new storefronts virtually overnight. Aided by the Windy City’s incredible network of railroads, these fledgling enterprises in turn created millionaires who wanted to wear the latest clothes from Europe. Marshall Fields and Potter Palmer were among the local elites who regularly boarded ships to France and returned with exquisite suits, coats, hats, gowns, fabrics, and other accessories, which designers sought to re-create with cheaper fabrics and labor. Chicago’s reputation as a trendsetting metropolis was only sealed by the city’s film industry. Charlie Chaplin and his cast of stylish starlets had women north and south of Madison Street copying every hairdo and dress. Even after moviemaking moved to Los Angeles, actors and actresses traveling to New York City regularly dropped in when they switched trains downtown. By World War II, Chicago, the “City of Big Shoulders,” became the place to start a career as a fashion designer.
With its irresistible mix of storied heritage and cosmopolitan pizzazz, England attracts more than 3 million Americans each year. Fodor’s England captures the most memorable sights and experiences in dazzling color, from fabulous historic houses and age-mellowed towns to cozy country pubs and London’s cutting-edge galleries. Expanded Coverage: England is always polishing its treasures, and this edition includes fresh city and country restaurant and hotel picks, along with newly popular sights such as Highclere Castle, which stands in for Downton Abbey in the Masterpiece Classic series. London‘s hot hotel and restaurant scenes get attention too, with best bets for different price categories and experiences. Indispensable Trip Planning Tools: Creating a great trip to England and Wales is easy using Top Attractions and Great Itineraries. Convenient overviews show each region and its highlights, and detail-rich chapter planning sections have on-target advice and tips for planning your time and for getting around the country by car, bus, and train.
Louisa of Woods Crossing is about the Texas frontier just prior to the 1836 War of Texas Independence. The fourteen year-old heroine of the story lived during times of hardships and dangers including nightmarish depredations by hostile Indians inclined to barbarous acts. Nothing was more feared than raids on cabins and the terrifying abductions of teen-aged girls. The family homestead on the Lavaca River was that of the typical log cabin with fi elds, pastures, and the customary animals except for two red wolf watchdogs adopted as orphaned pups. The story is also an endearing one of close friendships with other pioneer girls.