A Brief History of Surfing

Author: Matt Warshaw

Publisher: Chronicle Books


Category: Sports & Recreation

Page: 272

View: 567

Matt Warshaw knows more about surfing than any other person on the planet, as evidenced by The History of Surfing, Warshaw's definitive take on the sport. Now, he has honed that book into an abridged and excerpted edition for surfers everywhere. Each spread features a micro essay alongside an image capturing a slice of surf history, from Kelly Slater and the invention of the thruster to shark attacks and localism. Packaged in a small and chunky hardcover, A Brief History of Surfing deftly defines surf culture in an entertaining and irresistible volume with wide appeal.

The History of Surfing

Author: Matt Warshaw

Publisher: Chronicle Books


Category: Sports & Recreation


View: 869

Matt Warshaw knows more about surfing than any other person on the planet. After five years of research and writing, Warshaw has crafted an unprecedented history of the sport and the culture it has spawned. At nearly 500 pages, with 250,000 words and more than 250 rare photographs, The History of Surfing reveals and defines this sport with a voice that is authoritative, funny, and wholly original. The obsessive nature of this endeavor is matched only by the obsessive nature of surfers, who will pore through these pages with passion and opinion. A true category killer, here is the definitive history of surfing.

The Encyclopedia of Surfing

Author: Matt Warshaw

Publisher: Houghton Mifflin Harcourt


Category: Reference

Page: 788

View: 378

A pop culture reference of surfing in America today contains 1,500 alphabetical entries and three hundred illustrations to review the activity's most significant contributors, events, equipment, culture, and history. Reprint.

A Brief History of Rock, Off the Record

Author: Wayne Robins

Publisher: Routledge


Category: Music

Page: 328

View: 884

The birth of rock ‘n’ roll signaled the blossoming of a new teenage culture, dividing generations and introducing a new attitude of rebellion and independence. From Chuck Berry to the Beatles, from punk rock to hip hop, rock ‘n’ roll has continuously transformed alongside or in reaction to social, cultural, and political changes. A Brief History of Rock, Off the Record is a concise introduction to rock history and the impact it has had on American culture. It is an easy-to-read, vivid account written by one of rock’s leading critics. Pulling from personal interviews over the years, Wayne Robins interweaves the developments in rock music with his commentary on the political and social events and movements that defined their decades.

Cocaine + Surfing

A Sordid History of Surfing's Greatest Love Affair

Author: Chas Smith

Publisher: Rare Bird Books


Category: Social Science

Page: 188

View: 853

From the author of Welcome to Paradise, Now Go To Hell, a finalist for the PEN Center USA Award for Nonfiction One of Pearl Jam's Jeff Ament's Top 10 of 2018 It's no surprise that surfers like to party. The 1960-70s image, bolstered by Tom Wolfe and Big Wednesday, was one of mild outlaws--tanned boys refusing to grow up, spending their days drinking beer and smoking joints on the beach in between mindless hours in the water. But in the 1980s, as surf brands morphed into multibillion-dollar companies, the derelict portrait began to harm business. The external surf image became Kelly Slater and Laird Hamilton, beacons of health, vitality, bravery, and clean-living. Internally, though, surfing had moved on from booze and weed to its heart's true home, its soul's twin flame: cocaine. The rise of cocaine in American popular culture as the choice of rich, white elites was matched, then quadrupled, within surf culture. The parties got wilder, the nights stretched longer, the stories became more ridiculously unbelievable. And there has been no stopping, no dip in passion. It is a forbidden love, and few, if any, outside the surf world know about this particular rhapsody. Drug use is kept very well-hidden, even from insiders, but evidence of its psychosis rears its head from time to time in the form of overdoses, bar fights, surf contests, murders, and cover-ups. Cocaine + Surfing draws back the curtain on a hopped-up, sometimes-sexy, sometimes-deadly relationship and uses cocaine as the vehicle to expose and explain the utterly absurd surf industry to outsiders.

Greg Noll

The Art of the Surfboard

Author: Drew Kampion

Publisher: Gibbs Smith


Category: Sports & Recreation

Page: 176

View: 460

Provides a biographical profile of legendary surfer Greg Noll and his award-winning designs for innovative and unusual surfboards, accompanied by a concise history of the evolution of surfboards and construction techniques, from ancient Hawaii to the present day, a gallery of Greg Noll surfboards, and step-by-step photo sequences of the construction process.

Waves of Resistance

Surfing and History in Twentieth-century Hawaiʻi

Author: Isaiah Helekunihi Walker

Publisher: University of Hawaii Press


Category: History

Page: 225

View: 626

"The po‘ina nalu is a significant space where Hawaiian men exercised their cultural, territorial, social, and political prerogatives. The story of their resistance to the inundation of Hawai‘i by European, American, and other invasions is one that has long awaited a good telling... Surfing has been a significant sport and cultural practice in Hawai‘i for more than 1,500 years. In the last century, facing increased marginalization on land, many Native Hawaiians have found refuge, autonomy, and identity in the waves. In Waves of Resistance Isaiah Walker argues that throughout the twentieth century Hawaiian surfers have successfully resisted colonial encroachment in the po‘ina nalu (surf zone). The struggle against foreign domination of the waves goes back to the early 1900s, shortly after the overthrow of the Hawaiian kingdom, when proponents of this political seizure helped establish the Outrigger Canoe Club—a haoles (whites)-only surfing organization in Waikiki..."--Publisher description.

Australian Beach Cultures

The History of Sun, Sand and Surf

Author: Douglas Booth

Publisher: Routledge


Category: Sports & Recreation

Page: 284

View: 486

Australians are surrounded by beaches. But this enclosure is more than a geographical fact for the inhabitants of an island continent; the beach is an integral part of the cultural envelope. This work analyzes the history of the beach as an integral aspect of Australian culture.

A Brief Fantasy History of a Himalayan

Autobiographical Reflections

Author: Thinley Norbu

Publisher: Shambhala Publications


Category: Religion

Page: 112

View: 251

In this autobiographical narrative, Kyabje Thinley Norbu Rinpoche sets a magical scene as he describes his early years in "Snowland" (Tibet) as one of seven children of the renowned Nyingma master Kyabje Dudjom Rinpoche. After touching on his youthful training and experiences, Rinpoche describes how he traveled and taught in many different nations and cities in the East and West. Shifting between poetic observations and earthy humor, he shares stories of worldly and spiritual events accompanied by incisive commentary and sublime prayers. Rinpoche’s stories give readers an appreciation of the qualities of faith, respect, and commitment that he so beautifully embodied and strove to transmit. Moreover, they impart some of his most direct and trenchant instructions on the view of Buddhism and on what practitioners generally—and Western ones in particular—need to do in order to accomplish the goal of the Buddhist path. His sometimes provocative teaching style is an expression of the deep kindness with which he regarded his students. The narrative is brought to life visually with many rare personal color photos of Rinpoche, his teachers, his family, and the places he lived. Much more than a memoir, this book is an articulate expression of Thinley Norbu’s incisive wisdom and profound compassion.


Author: Guy Motil

Publisher: Falcon Guides


Category: Photography

Page: 223

View: 266

Surfboards is a high-end, large format book telling the story of 100 years of the history of the surfboard. Beginning with a brief history of the sport and its equipment, subsequent sections will deal with different categories and styles of surfboards with stories of their design and creation. State-of-the-art photography and illustration will show everything from close-up detail of the boards themselves to surfboards in action around the world and throughout the past.